Arclight Dynamics CNC plasma tables are, first and foremost, CNC, however we would be remiss in not discussing the diverse capabilities of the Arc Pro Series plasma tables being used as a CNC router table. Unlike many of our competitors, we have chosen a stout build for our gantry and z-axis which is tough enough to handle CNC routing.
Arclight Dynamics has CNC routing kits available for all of the Arc Pro Series Plasma Tables. If you have questions about how our CNC can be used as a CNC router please give us a call at 1-866-222-2154 or email us at. Key features of our tables that allow for effective CNC routing:. 620 oz motors on each side of our provide over 3000 oz of effective torque. The complete software solution for CNC Routing, Sign Making, Wood Carving & Engraving at a truly remarkable price!VCarve Pro and VCarve Desktop provide a powerful but intuitive software solution for cutting parts on a CNC Router. There are tools for 2D design and calculation of 2D and 2.5D toolpaths and along with the ability to import and toolpath a single 3D model (STL, OBJ, SKP etc.). There is also support to import multiple Vectric Clip Art3D models (V3M) to create advanced 3D assemblies.The software can import 2D designs from other programs but also provides a full set of drawing and editing tools.
The toolpath options cover all typical 2D routing operations such as Profiling, Pocketing, Auto-Inlays and Drilling as well as 2.5D strategies such as V-Carving, Prism carving, Moulding Toolpaths, Fluting and even a decorative Texturing strategy. For 3D you can Rough and Finish the model and there are options to project 2D and 2.5D toolpaths onto the 3D surface.
Each toolpath includes appropriate options to customize the settings and provide a high level of control for different types of operations. In addition all toolpaths can be previewed to show just how the part will look when it is actually cut, this allows instant feedback to allow toolpaths to be further optimized.VCarve includes the functionality demanded for complex work while remaining incredibly easy to use and affordably priced. The software is used by cabinet makers, wood workers, sign makers, prop makers, plastic fabricators, hobbyists and in many other applications.VCarve Pro and VCarve Desktop provide a powerful but intuitive software solution for cutting parts on a CNC Router. There are tools for 2D design and calculation of 2D and 2.5D toolpaths and along with the ability to import and toolpath a single 3D model (STL, OBJ, SKP etc.). There is also support to import multiple Vectric Clip Art 3D models (V3M) to create advanced 3D assemblies.The software can import 2D designs from other programs but also provides a full set of drawing and editing tools. The toolpath options cover all typical 2D routing operations such as Profiling, Pocketing, Auto-Inlays and Drilling as well as 2.5D strategies such as V-Carving, Prism carving, Moulding Toolpaths, Fluting and even a decorative Texturing strategy. For 3D you can Rough and Finish the model and there are options to project 2D and 2.5D toolpaths onto the 3D surface.
Our company insists all along the quality policy of 'product quality is base of enterprise survival; customer satisfaction is the staring point and ending of an enterprise; persistent improvement is eternal pursuit of staff' and the consistent purpose of 'reputation first, customer first' for 2017 New Style 2mm Thick Carbon Fiber Plate - Aluminum parts cnc machining parts its-003.
Each toolpath includes appropriate options to customize the settings and provide a high level of control for different types of operation. In addition all toolpaths can be previewed to show just how the part will look when it is actually cut, this allows instant feedback to allow toolpaths to be further optimized.VCarve includes the functionality demanded for complex work while remaining incredibly easy to use and affordably priced. The software is used by cabinet makers, wood workers, sign makers, prop makers, plastic fabricators, hobbyists and in many other applications.
I have been cutting up some aluminum diamond plate (about 3/16 thick) and have tried the following methods.Jig saw, very slow and just doesn’t work very well regardless of what blade I use, Grinder with a cut of wheel is even worse. The fastest thing I have found so far is a skill saw with a wood carbide blade. But after 20 or so cuts the blade gets dull and gummed up, it’s also loud as. and make a huge mess and I can only do straight cuts.Is there a tool that would make my life easier? Like some metal shears or something along that line and is under $150.Thanks in advanced. Would this work?No, not for the thickness you have.Best way to cut aluminum on a budget?!?I have been cutting up some aluminum diamond plate (about 3/16 thick) and have tried the following methods.Jig saw, very slow and just doesn’t work very well regardless of what blade I use, Grinder with a cut of wheel is even worse.
The fastest thing I have found so far is a skill saw with a wood carbide blade. But after 20 or so cuts the blade gets dull and gummed up, it’s also loud as.
and make a huge mess and I can only do straight cuts.Is there a tool that would make my life easier? Like some metal shears or something along that line and is under $150.Thanks in advanced.I'd recommend you look into one of the non-ferrous, metal-cutting saw blades for a 7.25' circular saw.
Tenryu, Morse, and others make them. They will produce some noise as you've experienced already-wear earmuffs and plugs. Here's an example of Tenryu's blade made especially for aluminum cutting. As long as this isn't a production run, this should work fine and only set you back $36. It has better teeth and a different geometry than what you tried earlier. Wood cutting blades are best kept for cutting wood-not metal. Plus, when it starts dulling you can take it to a shop and have it resharpened.
Just ask beforehand to make sure they are competent in sharpening these type of blades.-dseman. Thx for the link.I have looked for those kind of blades but am unable to find them here in Las Vegas.I have tried all the home stores IE Sears, home depot and lows.
Anyone know locally where they can be bought?These blades are not sold in the volume necessary for them to be in a HD or Lowes. Contact your local power tool retailer other than the big box stores. Check out your yellow pages for power tools, etc.
Give All Machine Tools on West Tropicana a call. Oh, and you'll be paying more than $36 for the blade I bet.-dseman. These blades are not sold in the volume necessary for them to be in a HD or Lowes. Contact your local power tool retailer other than the big box stores.
Check out your yellow pages for power tools, etc. Give All Machine Tools on West Tropicana a call. Oh, and you'll be paying more than $36 for the blade I bet.-dsemanLocal power tool retailers are getting really hard to find any more becouse of the big chains. I buy most of my tools from the nearest one left in my area, its over an hours drive but the way I see it, if he goes out of buisness the only thing left will be Lowes & Home Depot so its worth the drive for me and I dont mind paying a couple dollars more to help him stay in buisness. Cutting aluminum plateFirst, I would recommend a trip to your local industrial supplier and sharpener of saw blades/ check the yellow pages, there's bound to several nearby. Ask for a 7 1/4' NEGATIVE RAKE saw blade designed for cutting aluminum.
The reason for the negative rake is that due to it's configuration, it is less prone to trapping and building up the waste material in the gullets between the teeth. Next, buy a tallow based lube stick, which they probably sell as well. They're not expensive and last a long time. Whatever lube you use doesn't matter, but it is ESSENTIAL! As for applying it, jamming it into to the saw blade while it's spinning is a bit dicy, but is effective. However, you can improve the quality of the cut a lot by simply pre-marking your cut and manualy smearing a line of grease along the cut line; that way you're guaranteed lubrication all the way throuh the cut.
This method works equally well with the skill saw and the table saw. Incidentaly, the table saw is a fantastic way to cut aluminum - just be sure to wear a full face sheild.Being both a metal worker and a wood worker, the thing I love about aluminum is that you can approach the fabrication part exactly as though it is wood, and to this end, here is one of the coolest tricks I discovered about fabbing alu. There are a lot of times (especially after plasma cutting ) where you want to clean up and possibly bevel an edge in preparation to further fab.
Enter the wood jointer, or in certain circumstances the portable power planer. The beauty of the jointer is that the combination of the standard high speed steel blades, and the relativly slow RPM are ideal for the MILLING of aluminum, and believe me, if you keep the cut light and steady, you will be delighted with the result.
As for the lube, the secret here is to pre-grease the edge to be worked beforhand. Works a treat, and no harm what-so-ever to the jointer blades. These techniques work well with the router as well, just keep the revs down, and maintain a firm hold on the work/router.The next level up is to install a misting lube system on whatever machine you are using, This is the ultimate, ensuring a constant application of lube, and much easier clean up. There are a number of water soluable lubes on the market made for this purpose. The one I use is called Mechanoil and although it runs about $50.00 CDN.
Per 4 litres, at a dilution of between 7% to 10% lube to water it's pretty economical, and it works great for all your lube requirements such as drilling and tapping. We have squirt bottles of it beside all our drill presse and milling machines.Hope this helps.Mark.
Using a cheap carbide tips.I use a 8' carbide blade to cut all of my flat, angle, channel, rod and tube Aluminum stock on a 10' chop/miter saw. I use the 8' blade because I get them for free (they are a 'take-off' from a machine we produce).
I used to use a 10' 'aluminum/plastic' blade with the wax-stick lube and found that it would get dull and start 'chunking' the cuts after it got hot (40-50 cuts or so). Keep in mind that this is production and I'll sometimes cut 100 pieces at a time. The carbide will cut fine until it gets hot at which point the braze that holds the carbides on will soften and the carbides will start coming off. The blade will still cut, but not as cleanly.Cutting a sheet of diamond plate using carbide shouldn't be a problem because the metal that is being cut is cool as opposed to a piece of stock that will continue to get hotter and hotter, transferring the heat to the blade. I'd clamp a guide on the D.M. To be better able to cut a straight line and not accidentally pull a carbide off. And let the blade spin down to a stop before you remove it from the slot or you could pull the carbides off.Cutting with a saw will leave a razor-sharp edge that can be cleaned with a blending wheel (sandpaper flaps) then I would use a deburring wheel to final clean the edge.Hope this helps, Bob.